I feel the wave gathering under me, my feet rising and the giddy feeling of it moving beyond me, as if a horse just ran through me and then the falling, the falling and my feet back on sand and then a little reverb from the wave that broke, most of its energy moving away from me, but a little finding its way against the tide and it feels good moving around me back to front, returning to say thank you it seems, and I lean back until I feel my hair, like the fronds of a jellyfish moving in circles and I stand up and I know the water coming off my face makes it sheen like it never can except here, like it is smoothed with silicone and my eyes slowly open hands open, feeling this all with my body, yes, and the slow, gathering again, drawing my arms out and I’m smiling and my feet are rising and I am being lifted.

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