Shorebreak

I feel the wave gath­er­ing under me, my feet ris­ing and the giddy feel­ing of it mov­ing beyond me, as if a horse just ran through me and then the falling, the falling and my feet back on sand and then a lit­tle reverb from the wave that broke, most of its energy mov­ing away from me, but a lit­tle find­ing its way against the tide and it feels good mov­ing around me back to front, return­ing to say thank you it seems, and I lean back until I feel my hair, like the fronds of a jel­ly­fish mov­ing in cir­cles and I stand up and I know the water com­ing off my face makes it sheen like it never can except here, like it is smoothed with sil­i­cone and my eyes slowly open hands open, feel­ing this all with my body, yes, and the slow, gath­er­ing again, draw­ing my arms out and I’m smil­ing and my feet are ris­ing and I am being lifted.

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